Home > Indonesia > 5th February – Night birds of Petulu, The temples of Kutri, Yeh Pulu and Goa Gajah

5th February – Night birds of Petulu, The temples of Kutri, Yeh Pulu and Goa Gajah

We are lucky to be allowed into the temples in Bali, in India only Hindus were allowed to go in. For instance the golden temple in Varanasi we were only allowed to view it from the outside.

The temples in Bali are more like the architecture you will find in Angkor, not in total ruins but you can grasp the intentions of the society that built it. They are not marbled like the ones in India but they give the impression they are old and important.

BelowTemple at Pura Bukit Dharma at Kutri

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Julie and left our bungalow at Sanias house, jumped on our motorbike we have hired for the day at 45,000 (including insurance) and headed to our first site Kutri. In Kutri there are three important temples In the same complex Pura Puseh, Pura Bukit Dharma, Pura Kedharman (it’s free to enter but you will need a Sarong, Sash). Pura Bukit Dharma is the biggest one and you can climb up a flight of maybe 50 stairs to see one of their gods Durga. From the flight if stairs you can see pretty far and the volcanoes north of Bali.

5 to 10 minutes down the road from Kutri in the direction of Ubud we stopped at another temple called Yeh Pulu (15,000 IDRs or £1,10) and 2,000 IDRs for parking. We had been here before in 2008, so it was easy to find an we didn’t use a guide this time. If you go for the first time it’s worth taking a guide as they explain the temple and also a walk through the rice fields. You will obviously have to pay for the guide, try and negotiate before setting off.

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AboveView of two volcanos from Pura Bukit Dharma

In Yeh Pulu you will find carvings dating back to the 14th century and legend has it, it was created by a Balinese giant with his finger nails. Some of the distinctive carvings are of a man carrying pots of water, a woman peering through a door and a horseback rider.

Our last stop was Goa Gajah, we have also been here before and wanted to do this again on this journey. It’s the standard 15,000 IDRs to enter, 2,000 parking fee if you have a bike, 9am – 5pm and you will need a sarong and sash.

Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) dates from the 11th century and it’s carved out of solid rock. Its named after the Indian god Ganesh who is the remover of obstacles. Above the cave is a monstrous head known as Bhoma and it’s believed to help keep evil away. The inside of the cave is t-shaped and has an image of Ganesh on one side.

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Outside the cave is a bathing place with steps leading down to separate areas for men and women. Water pours from the pots of female carved stone figures. Walk down the steps to the river, cross the bridge and you will see nearby the remains of a relief carving of Buddhist temple structures.

After our morning excursions, we went back to Ubud and had lunch, I was very hungry so I chose a posh restaurant to eat in and it was disappointing and expensive, less said about it the better.

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Chilled back at Sanias place an around 5pm we went to Petulu which is 2km from Ubud centre to see the the sacred herons. It costs 15,000 IDRs to see the herons but we said we were going through the village to see the rice fields so we didn’t pay. Basically around sunset time 5:30 – 6pm time, all the herons descend on the little village and stay in the trees. It’s a spectacular sight seeing all these birds perched on their branches. We went to see the rice fields, watched the locals play football and then cane back to Ubud.

After our expensive lunch, we went had dinner next door to our bangalow (Warung Lokal), nice portions and also cheap so cannot complain.

En français:

Quand on se lève on perçoit un magnifique ciel bleu. Tu m’étonner, il ne doit plus y avoir une seule goutte avec tout ce qui est tombé hier.

On traîne le matin en faisant de la lessive, du sport, de l’Internet etc.

Vers 11h, on part tranquillement sur notre petit scooter direction Kutri. Ce n’est pas très loin d’Ubud et il y a trois temples en inquiet valent vraiment le coup.

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Avant d’entrer, on enfile nos sarongs. Il n’y a que quelques locaux et ils nous regardent bizarrement. On fait le tour des deux premiers temples rapidement puis on monte les marches jusqu’au troisième, dédié à Durga.

On reprend le scooter pour aller jusqu’à Yeh Pulu. On paie 2000 roupies pour le parking et 15,000 par personne pour l’entrée, la aussi il faut porter un sarong. C’est un endroit ou il y a des bas-reliefs graves dans la roche, perdus au milieu de rizières. Les bas-reliefs ont soit disant été sculptés par le légendaire géant Kebo Iwa avec ses ongles.

Quand on a fini la visite, on rentre en direction de Ubud et on s’arrête au Goa Gajah, ou la grotte de l’éléphant. Les prix pour le parking et l’entrée sont les mêmes qu’a Yeh Pulu. Et encore une fois, il faut porter le sarong.
On descend les marchés jusqu’à l’entrée de la grotte, un gigantesque visage dont la bouche sert d’entrée.a l’intérieur, il y a une statue de trois lingams et une autre de Ganesh. C’est d’ailleurs pour ça que la grotte s’appelle celle de l’éléphant. Juste en face de la grotte, il y a des bassins, un pour la baignade des hommes et l’autre pour les femmes.
Un peu encontre bas, il y a les vestiges d’un temple bouddhiste éparpillés dans une petite rivière.

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On finit la visite et on est de retour à Ubud vers 13h30. On dépose la scooter à l’hotel puis on essaie de trouver un endroit ou déjeuner. Kwasi a tres faim et voudrait un bon hamburger ou une pizza. On décide de s’installer au Mumbul. La pizza qu’il commande est minuscule et même la portion de frite est ridicule (même pas une dizaine) et en plus il chargé une taxe de 15,5%. On s’en tire pour le prix de quatre repas à Dewa Warung et on a encore faim!

On rentre a la chambre et on continue de lire. J’entame le deuxième Millenium.

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Pour le dîner, on retourne au Dewa Warung mais on voit une queue alors l’idée d’attendre pour avoir,une table et ensuite attendre pour les plats ne nous intéresse pas et on fait demi-tour. Il y a un Warung lokal juste à côté de l’hotel. Les portions sont généreuses et ce n’est pas très cher, parfait!

  1. Delphine
    6 February, 2012 at 12:49 pm

    Nice pictures and weather!!! Profitez en bien!!! Comme vous le savez ici il neige et c’est plutôt ambiance : luge, écharpe, gant et bonnet!! hihi ! Je vous embrasse fort! Del xxx

    • 6 February, 2012 at 1:32 pm

      Thanks Delphine. Sorry you have to deal with the cold. Come and join us!

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