Home > Nepal > 17th November – Day one of our trek, climbing to 1960m.Nayapul to Ulleri and its 3100 steps

17th November – Day one of our trek, climbing to 1960m.Nayapul to Ulleri and its 3100 steps

So this is D-Day. I’m embarking on the toughest challenge of my life so far. I will be attempting to climb 3200m over the course of 3days and then 2 days to descend.

Woke up at 4am as I couldn’t sleep and my mind was racing of different scenarios of what could happen. The steepness, would I bottle it because of the height.

Alarm went off at 6:15am and got ready and met our guide Chakra. He was born in Nepal but family from Mongolia. A very nice chap.


We drove about an hour to Nayapal 1000m. The road was not great and got out of car to start our trek. First and foremost we stopped for breakfast at Birethanti (1025 m). Julie needs breakfast,always.

The route was just incredible, winding rocky roads, up and down and relatively easy. As Jane Holland would say “Divine”. We walked by a river obviously flowing from the higher peaks. It’s was clear and inviting as we were hot and sweating like beasts.

The route was up and down and stopped a few times to drink some water. Saw children all dressed in blue going to school, also ponies and Sherpas were seen on same route carrying goods. It’s amazing how much a Sherpa can carry. I’ve got it easy and I was complaining about my small bag that weighs maybe 8kg.

We then carried on trekking to Tinkhedhungga (1520 m) where we had lunch.

The next bit of our trip to Urelli was the most difficult route. We were climbing 400m, no downhill just climb and climb and climb. Our guide mentioned it was about 3000 stone steps to our destination. So we decided to count to see how many.

The journey was difficult, painful and steep as we stopped a few times to take water, catch breath. Wow this was difficult. The view was spectacular, ourstanding, amazing. No photograph would do it justice. Green mountain, rice fields 100’s of meters below, fresh water river running through it and can’t smell any pollution. Awesome.

Stopped and chatted to a few people coming down from Ghorepani. Asking if they saw the mountain ranges as the weather at the moment is not great. Some said they did and others said they didn’t. We are currently not lucky with weathers as it stops us from doing things, would be a shame if we never saw the big boys who are over 8000m high.


We were walking around cliff faces.It took us 2 hrs to climb 400m and we were in Urelli and it was 3300 steps in the end. At 1920m it was cloudy and cold when we got here. Temperature is around 10 celcius.

Had a hot shower as I was soaking wet with sweat and had a beer to chill.

Ordered an egg fried rice, Julie noodle soup and after a cup of tea. There were these two Americans from Vermont doing the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) Nate and Alison and we all sat around chatting with Chakra and asking him for advice and talking in general.

I introduced Chakra to the other guys but got his name wrong and we all laughed about it.

Julie and I slept in same single bed with two blankets, both wearing wooly hat, socks, long johns, scarf, gloves and fleece. They don’t do heating here so it’s all about getting cosy.

En francais:

On se lève a 6h20, on se prépare et on ferme les sacs.

A 7h, on fait la rencontre de notre guide, Chakra. Ensuite, on part dans une petite voiture genre Fiat pour faire la route entre Pokhara et Nayapul, le point de départ de notre trek.
Ca prend une heure et demie et la route n’est vraiment pas bonne.

Nayapul se situe a 1000m d’altitude. On marche pendant 30 minutes puis on s’arrête a Birethanti(1025m) pour prendre le petit déjeuner: des flocons d’avoine pour moi et des oeufs avec toast pour Kwasi. On repart vers 9h30 direction Ulleri. D’après Chakra, on devrait y arriver vers 15h. Pour le moment on suit principalement une route pas encore goudronnée. Elle a été faite l’année dernière, avant c’était une piste. On croise quelques touristes et certains groupes mais autant que ce que l’on pensait.


On suit une rivière qui parfois se transforme en cascade. C’est vraiment de beaux paysages. Parfois, la route disparait et on se retrouve sur des chemins de pierre. Ça grimpa parfois mais pas trop.

A 12h, on s’arrête a Tinkhedhungga (1520m) pour déjeuner: des pâtes pour moi et des peurs avec du riz pour Kwasi. On essaie de manger des trucs qui tiennent au corps pour avoir assez d’énergie et aussi pou le froid. Même si on a un peu de soleil de temps en temps, il ne doit pas faire plus de 10 degrés. Chakra nous prévient que le bout de chemin qu’il nous reste a faire se compose de deux ponts suspendus et de plus de 3000 marches!

Les ponts sont assez sympas a passer, ça bouge, on voit a travers les planches et il y a des drapeaux de prière attaches tout du long. Les marches, en revanche, sont bien moins drôles. En gros de Tinkhedhungga a Ulleri (1920m), ce n’est que ça, des marches, des marches, des marches. On a grimpe 3300 pour arriver jusqu’à notre tea house: Meera Guesthouse, oui on a compte!


On a du faire plusieurs pauses car ça grimpe fort! Certains touristes qui redescendaient disaient qu’il n’avait pas pu voir les montagnes a cause des nuages mais apparemment le temps s’ameliore. On croise les doigts!

En arrivant a la tea house, on nous donne la meilleure chambre, avec des fenêtres sur deux cotes! Bon on ne voit pas grand chose mais on est content. On a une douche dans la chambre et de l’eau chaude. Comme on est les premiers touristes arrives, on se dépêche de prendre une douche histoire d’avoir de l’eau chaude!

On redescend dans le restaurant et Kwasi se commande une bière Everest pour se féliciter de ce qu’il a accompli aujourd’hui. On a bien grimpe quand même. Il fait froid, donc on a mis nos polaires, nos bonnets et nos gants.

On fait la rencontre d’un couple d’américains: Allison et Nate. Ils ont 26 ans, ils enseignaient l’anglais a Taiwan et sont sur le chemin du retour.
On dine tous ensemble et on se couche tôt, il fait nuit, froid et il ne se passe rien.

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